Each Cook Should Study At This Spot’: Unassuming Turkish Eatery Ranks 4th on Ranking of London’s Best Restaurants.
When curating a list of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate renowned high-end establishments. However, tucked high among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a distant corner of north London.
An Surprise Accolade
This small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. This recognition has made the owners utterly shocked.
“I’m utterly astonished,” remarks a family member, pointing to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their small restaurant securing such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.
A Appeal of Modesty
This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a popular spot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” says the owner.
A Namesake Offering: Tantuni
However, it’s all down to the fare, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent quality.
The meat is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.
The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.
Other Than the Basic Tantuni
There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.
For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.
Surpassing the Giants
Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.
Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.
A Ethos of Heart
The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.
“I believe what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”
The philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.
The Journey of Dedication
In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.
Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.
A Recognition for the People
The restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic honour.